Every season is an opportunity for the creative directors of Red Valentino to seek out new inspiration, and they always seem to do it in the most interesting of ways. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli seem to enjoy selecting obscure cultural references, often synthesizing highly diverse elements into a keystone from which they build the season’s collection. Over the last year we’ve seen a range of style influences, the most conservative being the choice for London Mod as the inspiration for the 2016 Resort collection. Pre-fall saw the mash up of Seattle Grunge with Fellini’s La Strada, while the afflatus for Spring 2015 was, in the designers’ own words, “Cinderella hitting Las Vegas after a love affair with a sailor.”

This year’s vision is based on a woman famous for her fashion and infamous for her decadence: none other than girl queen Marie Antoinette. According to legend, the etiquette for a woman of her station required that she change three times a day and never wear the same dress twice. That’s more than 1000 tailor-made garments per year! Definitely decadent, but that’s not an apt description of the Spring 2015 line. I’d be more inclined toward delicate. Ornate embroidery and lace in soft textures and hues offset austere, monochromatic expanses, subtly punctuated by a line of buttons or a simple crease. In a definite departure from last year’s less subtle stylings, the 2016 color palette reflects the pastel shades Marie Antoinette preferred most, while heavier on the black and earth tones than what she would have worn. But to me this only accentuates the splashes of English lavender, celeste blue, cherry blossom pink, champagne; and my favorite, of which I saw a lot when I was touring the store, something between eucalyptus and celadon.

The Rome store is currently under renovation but it will be open by the time you read this article. I visited the temporary store, situated in an old building that was probably a single villa at some point in history, on picturesque Via Margutta, between Piazza Di Spagna and Piazza Del Popolo. Pea gravel crunches under my shoes as I cross the wide promenade between the old iron gate and the front door. Entering, the first thing that catches my eye is a life size horse statue upholstered in cream-colored fabric. Large oval mirrors watch from the corners. Stunted pedestals sprout beneath a table, each presenting a single pair of heels. Lilting organ music fades in and out, giving the experience an ever so slightly surreal quality. At the back of one room are tall windowed doors that lead to a courtyard with a table and chairs for lounging.

Last year’s spring collection was heavy on the stripes and polka dots. This year is definitely more about flat colors, but with the occasional deviation. Continuing my exploration, I find a neon rainbow, arching across the room from corner to corner. Literally made from neon lights, it dominates the space, throwing off color and energy in all directions. s are a definite theme in the spring collection. I notice one arm of a jaunty rabbit fur coat ringed with rainbow stripes, a bold style choice that really works. A black dress sports an asymmetrical rainbow pattern from the bolder side of this year’s color spectrum. On the more subtle side, alternating stripes of solid fabric and intricate lacework make up the skirt of a moss green, vintage style baby doll dress. I very much like what Red Valentino is doing with bead-embroidery this season. You’ll find it on anything from handbags to dresses. I am especially impressed with a chiffon skirt, resembling a tutu that falls to calf length, adorned with delicate beaded patterns.

Last year’s hard lines and comparatively brash patterns — not without their own charm — have given way to a fresh new look. It’s as if the volume has been turned down and the resolution has been turned up. This year captures all the opulence of Versailles while simultaneously projecting a sense of temperance. These clothes are not the sort to be worn with the young queen’s ridiculous pouf hairstyle or any such desperate attempts to be noticed. This approach is more about subtlety and an attention to details. When an elegant, brocaded chiffon dress and matching clutch purse in the shape of an open fan is paired with gym-style shoes [4], the dissonance is highly enjoyable. The dress exudes elegance and control while the gym shoes clearly say the exact opposite. I can’t help but wonder if, in an especially convoluted example of life imitating art, the designers were inspired by Sophia Coppola’s film Marie Antoinette. In a scene that has caused quite a lot of discussion about whether it was intentional or a mistake, Marie Antoinette is trying on a pair of shoes and in the background are a pair of old, normal, modern Converse.

You’ll find Red Valentino’s newly renovated store on Via del Babuino #61, just a couple blocks from Piazza Di Spagna. If their temporary boutique is any indicator, and I was told it is, then it will be a worthwhile experience, even if you don’t end up buying anything at all.

Red Valentino

Via del Babuino #61

http://www.redvalentino.com/